“Asheville”

We flew to Asheville on Monday, via Charlotte. A long layover there allowed us to enjoy a leisurely lunch before boarding the tiny (meaning I had to bend over almost double to walk down the aisle) plane to Asheville. It felt like flying inside an MRI tube, which was not good for claustrophobic flyers.
We wondered what caused the over 30 minute delay in leaving Charlotte – of course no updates from the American Airlines pilot. Diana noticed out the window that a plane landed with a lot of smoke from the wheels and immediate emergency vehicle response. We assume all traffic was held until that troubled flight landed.
Would you like to know a little bit about the history of Asheville? If not, skip across the next few paragraphs.
Asheville, North Carolina, sits in the Blue Ridge Mountains and has a long history rooted in the Indigenous peoples of the region, particularly the Cherokee. European-American settlement grew in the late 18th century, and the town was incorporated as Asheville in 1797. Its location along mountain routes helped it develop as a regional center, and the arrival of the railroad in the 1880s accelerated its growth.
I love this picture that was in the lobby of the condominium building – I named it Cherokees meet REO Speedwagon:

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Asheville became known as a health and resort destination, attracting visitors seeking the mountain climate. The city experienced a major building boom, producing landmarks such as the Biltmore Estate, built by George Vanderbilt beginning in 1889. Asheville also developed a distinctive Art Deco architectural legacy, particularly through public buildings constructed during the 1920s and 1930s.
The Great Depression hit Asheville particularly hard, leaving the city with substantial municipal debt. Unlike many cities, Asheville largely avoided demolishing its older downtown buildings to modernize, helping preserve its historic architecture. Beginning in the late 20th century, downtown revitalization, the arts, craft brewing, tourism, and its reputation as a cultural destination fueled renewed growth. Today, Asheville is known for its historic architecture, arts scene, food and craft-beverage culture, and its setting in the southern Appalachian Mountains.
Back to our trip. I watched a somewhat cheesy movie on the flight – Alan Cuming and Brian Cox star in Glenrothan, a movie about two brothers and their fight over a whisky distillery.
After a good hike, we took an Uber downtown to rendezvous with Jeff and Merry Lee. Dee Dee, MLM’s sister, had very kindly let us stay in one of her two condos in downtown Asheville. The place was quite luxurious with excellent views of downtown and the mountains.
We enjoyed dinner at the nearby lobster trap. Jeff and MLM donned lobster bibs, while Diana and I shared steamed clams and mussels – very good.














Jeff and MLM were kind to revisit the Biltmore estate with us on Wednesday.
Biltmore Estate is a grand Gilded Age estate built by George Washington Vanderbilt near Asheville, North Carolina. Vanderbilt first visited the area in 1888 and was captivated by the Blue Ridge Mountains. He purchased land and commissioned architect Richard Morris Hunt to design a 250-room French Renaissance–style château, while renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted designed the gardens and grounds. Construction began in 1889, and the house was completed in 1895. Biltmore is a country home and working estate rather than simply a mansion. The completed house contained more than four acres of floor space, including 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces. Vanderbilt and his wife, Edith, lived there with their daughter Cornelia, while the surrounding estate included farms, forests, gardens, and extensive landscaping. Olmsted’s work at Biltmore also contributed to the development of large-scale scientific forestry in the United States.
After George Vanderbilt’s death in 1914, his descendants continued managing the estate. Biltmore House opened to the public in 1930 during the Great Depression, helping generate tourism and revenue for its preservation. Today, Biltmore remains family-owned and encompasses roughly 8,000 acres, with the mansion, gardens, winery, lodging, and other attractions making it one of Asheville’s best-known historic landmarks.
We stopped for wine tasting at the Biltmore village. What an impressive estate!
Dinner was at Mountain Madre, a Mexican restaurant that Jeff wanted to try after seeing the food and drinks when walking by the patio. I thought the offerings were very good and different than the typical fare. The margarita flight that Jeff ordered came with helpful fruit and pepper indicators to identify each drink.

After dinner entertainment was right next door – Abby Bryant performing the music of Nina Simone at the Hotel Eve jazz club (there does not appear to be a Hotel Eve and we couldn’t figure out why it’s called that.)
Abby started out really well – great voice and style, and became a bit monotonous after three or four songs. All the same tempo and approach – she needed something different to keep our attention. That being said, the venue and staff were all great. I would go back. Thanks to Jeff for finding this music opportunity – totally different than Tuesday night’s hippy fest.
We made an attempt at brunch at Sunny Point in West Asheville on Thursday morning. A 45 minute wait seemed a bit too long, and so we took the host’s recommendation and wandered down the street to Biscuit Head.


Here we were introduced to cathead biscuits – extra-large, rustic Southern buttermilk biscuits, named because they are traditionally said to be as big as a cat’s head. That explained the cat mural on the side of the building. Diana and I split a cathead biscuit Benedict -yummy.

There was a “jambar” so that we could try some creative berry mixtures with the catheads.

This take on the Dos Equis beer commercials with the most interesting man in the world made me smile:

We walked back through West Asheville, enjoying some of the murals along the way, from Dolly Parton to Grace Jones:


We returned to the River Arts district, completely devastated by Hurricane Helene in September, 2024 – and now recovering nicely.


In case we hadn’t been exposed to enough art, we made a stop at the Marquee – a massive collection of the work of independent artists contained in a large warehouse.



There were some interesting pieces amongst the plethora of art offerings:

After some chill time at the condo, we ventured downstairs to the Sovereign Remedies cocktail bar – almost directly underneath where we were staying.

This was a great stop – good food and superior cocktails.
Then across the street for some hilarity at the dueling piano bar.


It wasn’t really dueling – the two guys took turns, allowing them to do some quick research on the requests that people were tipping them to play. Both were very talented and kept the good crowd well entertained. It was just as much fun to watch the other folks in there enjoying the music as it was to enjoy the songs that we requested.
We spent our last couple of Asheville hours enjoying brunch at Chestnut on Friday morning – a higher end affair with very good dishes. Thanks to MLM and Jeff for delivering us back to the airport for an on time and easy trip home.
I did enjoy a movie, “Tuner”, with Dustin Hoffman and Leo Woodall. Leo plays a piano tuner with ultra-sensitive hearing who discovers a talent for cracking safes.
I couldn’t resist the Talking Heads cover band, “Tchoup Making Sense” at Tipitinas on Saturday night. They were excellent and I wished they had found a way to start before 10:30pm. The opening song was my favourite – way to win me back after the late start:
Thom, Denny and Greg had happy music faces on:

One more song:
I’m glad I hung in there with the late start.

I’m about a third of the way through “Degas at the Gas Station” by Thomas Beller, and am really enjoying it. I love the writing style and the somewhat random and interconnected topics. Here’s an online summary and I’ll have some highlights to share next week:
“In his latest collection, Thomas Beller trains his piercing literary eye on how a single, seismic event indelibly shapes the trajectory of the common and mundane experiences of one’s life. Weaving together a charming set of autobiographical stories, Beller interrogates the randomness and contingencies that separate sadness from joy, death from life. His father escaped the Nazis, only to die in America from cancer when Beller was nine years old. Beller measures how this loss impacted his life as the father of two young children and became both a catalyst for understanding an ever-present sorrow. At the same time, ordinary moments—from retrieving an iPod from the subway tracks to encountering the police at a Kinks concert to observing his young tutued ballerina daughter at a gas station—lead to instances of penetrating insight, self-deprecation, and humor. Degas at the Gas Station presents an endearing and bracingly honest portrait of the author as an ever-curious observer of the mysteries and profundities of everyday life.”
I also read a bit of Patti Smith’s “Bread of Angels” – didn’t love it and found my attention drifting off – maybe I’ll come back to it again next week. A little about it:
“The most intimate of Smith’s memoirs, Bread of Angels takes us through her teenage years where the first glimmers of art and romance take hold. Arthur Rimbaud and Bob Dylan emerge as creative role models as she begins to write poetry then lyrics, ultimately merging both into the songs of iconic recordings such as Horses, Wave, and Easter.”

Warren Haynes, a resident of Asheville, released a wonderful live recording with the Asheville Symphony Orchestra this week. How serendipitous.

We rendezvoused with Kenny and Kara and I found Tacos and Beer as an alternative option. This is a sister restaurant of the place on Saint Charles Avenue that has the long line on Taco Tuesday. We had never been to either – a mistake as the drinks and food were all very good. The cucumber and cilantro margaritas were a big hit.

The group (minus sleepy me) played pickleball at the local outdoor court on Wednesday morning. Then we made the short drive over to Randy and Amy’s home for a highlight of the trip- a boat ride with Captain Randy.





Thursday morning brought another storm. We played board games. Hitster, a recent gift from Sean, was a big hit. You get a 30 second clip of a song and have to name the artist and put the card in the right place in your timeline. Highly recommended if you have a krewe that likes music and has some knowledge of music from the fifties until the present day. Telestrations, a game where you pass books around and have to draw the phrase that the previous person wrote or guess what the picture is, generated some hilarious results. The girls finished off a “folk art” style puzzle. There was a gallery full of this stuff on Main Street.

The Full Speed recommendation turned out to be a great one. An excellent bar with great cocktails, a local brewery doing a promotion, a wonderful local musician, and a Jenga game.
Brandon Kenyon did an excellent set of music on the Full Speed patio. He started with “What a Wonderful World” and played trumpet and guitar to accompany a very good voice. Here’s the Levon Helm classic made popular by the Band of Heathens:
Barrel Proof, directly across the street from Bill and Shainey’s place, was our destination to watch the Saints game on Sunday. Sandi, Nic and Bill met us there – Nic with a huge trough of gourmet andouille and chicken sliders. Barrel Proof may be my new favourite bar – happy hour prices whenever there’s a Saints game, meaning $6 for their delicious Old Fashioned. And how could you not like a place that is fine with you bringing in your own food. It always helps to have a regular customer (Bill) in the group.
My first book this week was “Showdown in Desire” by Orissa Arend, a tennis friend of Kenny’s. This is a real, physical book that Kenny leant me and so doesn’t work for reading bed. This is a good description of the book:






Our talk at NOMA was part of the “Elders Sacred Talk Series” and featured Jackie Harris and Deacon John. It was quite similar to the talk we attended at the Jazz and Heritage Center a few weeks ago – also featuring a celebration of Germaine Bazzle. There was no music at the NOMA event – just conversation, and I think it would have benefited from a small band playing a few songs with Deacon John or at least some videos that he could react to.



































Herlin Riley is New Orleans musical royalty. His resume is very long and very impressive, having helped Wynton Marsalis establish the Jazz at Lincoln Center orchestra, and playing with Ahmad Jamal for many years.
Riley interviewed the pianist, Lawrence Cotton (right), who was quick to let everyone know that he would be 100 in 6 months. Wow.







My quest for an enjoyable read that I could sink my teeth into continued this week. “Mothers and Sons” by Adam Haslet showed moments of promise but became too much of what I call “kitchen sinky” – each situation needs to have one of every type of person suffering from all the usual current traumas and challenges. That became too much and I stopped after 100 pages. Here’s an online summary:


I braved the heat on Thursday morning for a walk to French Truck Coffee to read the paper. After that I completed the three mile circuit down Magazine to Napoleon, up to Prytania and back home. I was quite sweaty on arrival back. This sight distressed me on my walk. I keep seeing this ridiculous Tesla truck around town – and parked in front of a wonderful local tapas place (Baru) it just looks completely ridiculous.
Diana returned from pickleball to report that she and Laurie got first place in the open play tournament. She was quick to point out that there were only four teams – still worth celebrating, I think.








I’ve almost finished “The Emperor of Gladness” by Ocean Vuong. I did not love this book but kept with it, having rejected quite a few after a few chapters recently. Oprah raved about this and I usually enjoy her recommendations. This one is too plodding, mundane, and depressing. Here’s the online summary:
Wednesday started with a walk/run in the park for both of us, then Diana had yoga and I splintered off to Tartine for coffee and the newspaper. They had a stuffed baguette advertised that I couldn’t resist. Stuffed with ham, bacon, onion, mushrooms, fontina and some spicy peppers. Ridiculously yummy. It doesn’t look exciting in the photo but I wanted to add it so that I remember to try it again. This is certainly my favourite breakfast spot.
When I returned to pick up yoga D, this is the sight that greeted me – a bunch of bottoms up in the air. Apparently that was their final stretch.






Diana hit the river trail early on Friday morning and then we shared a breakfast sandwich before making our way to Blair and Lisa’s compound for a “lite lunch.”













What’s up with Blair’s vintage Earl Campbell Oilers jersey, you ask? Well…he saw several videos where Christopher Cross was wearing the same shirt, and was hoping to attract his attention. Our seats were third row, center with perfect views – that’s how Blair rolls. Christopher Cross sounds great and broke out his biggest hit early in the set:
Sami, having proven himself very reliable on Saturday night, transported us in style back to the Austin airport for our flight home. I chuckled at this album display in the airport from local artists – that’s Christopher Cross at the top left and that album has both hit songs that I shared earlier.
Jon Cleary, wonderful English born piano player who has resided in New Orleans for 40 years and is an expert on all things funky NOLA style piano, has an album coming soon. This was recorded from a solo show at the Royal Albert Hall in London. Hard to believe he sold that out and plays in small venues in his adopted home town.

Jeff was the only person in the building that knew the answer to one of the questions. He had gone off to get a beer and none of us knew which coach won basketball championships at both the college and NBA level. I said that I thought Jeff might know. Returning to the table, he said “I know this one – Larry Brown.” Oh yeah – we should have remembered that.













I finished up “Truth & Beauty: A Friendship” by Ann Patchett this week. A bit depressing, but a very good read.
Catching up on local news, I read that Plas Johnson died last Wednesday at the age of 94. I wrote about him a few weeks ago – famous for the Pink Panther theme and played on numerous New Orleans soul and R&B records in the 50s and 60s.








I’ve been rationing “Living in the Present with John Prine” by Tom Piazza (my autographed copy – thanks KKs). By “rationing I mean that I’m allowing myself a chapter a week. It’s just too good to read through too quickly.





















In the evening, we made a pilgrimage to find Leonard Cohen’s grave. It was quite an uphill trek at the end of the walk to the entrance of the Mont Royal cemetery. We came across this church on the walk, not Notre Dame but the location of that picture of the girls with the young men in tuxedos. Or at least that’s the latest cover story – something about they were putting on their ties and getting all ready for a wedding, and offered to take the picture. Hmm.





















































We did have a tiny snafu at airport security. The bagel spreader souvenirs were not permitted as carry on items – such dangerous weapons. Diana decided to go back out and check her back – no problem, she made it to the gate in time for boarding.
My book this week was “Who is Maud Dixon” by Alexandra Andrews. You may remember that I read her “The Fine Art of Lying” a few weeks ago. All the reviews said that this was a much better read. I agree with the reviews for once – much deeper characters and better humour. Here’s an online summary: