This was looking like the first time in several years that we would skip the New Orleans jazzfest. Then Diana suggested going in on the Tuesday between jazzfest weekends to catch some of the night time shows and attend the festival on Thursday (the quietest day of all seven). She checked the cost of flights (much less expensive than anticipated), called Denny to make sure the cottage was available, and we were all set.
New Orleans and Webster St welcomed us on Tuesday afternoon and we settled in Chez Ogan for drinks and an excellent dinner of crab salad and shrimp and goat cheese enchiladas from Chef Denny and Sous Chef Anne.
Wednesday got off to a slow start but quickly picked up speed in the early afternoon with a late lunch at Boucherie on Carrolton St. Look at this amazing soft shell crab – we all agreed it was one of the best we had ever tasted.
While enjoying lunch, Denny did his typical research work and found a unique show happening at 4pm at Bud Rip’s. This is a dive bar in the Marigny and the Morning 40 Federation was performing. The music was like a modern day Iron Maiden – very heavy and very loud with a lot of changing time signatures and keys. Diana enjoyed her Rose wine from a “backpack can”. I found the music sounded best from about a block away outside the bar.
While the rain storm held off we decided to check out Chazfest. This is a very small festival held in a couple of back yards and designed as an antidote to the large and expensive jazz festival. It’s named after Washboard Chaz who we did see performing there. The highlight was the Valparaiso Men’s Chorus doing their sea shanty sing along routine. This is always one of Denny’s favorites as you can tell. A completely unique and unexpected afternoon treat for sure.
Chazfest was followed by a quick stop at Kebab for falafels and sandwiches. Then home to regroup before the Piano Summit show at Snug Harbor.
The heavens opened on the drive to Snug Harbor and our Uber driver did a great job of navigating the flooding streets. Snug Harbor is a tiny jazz club on Frenchmen Street in the Marigny. It was one of the first venues on this street which used to be an out of the tourist area music area. Sadly it has recently become more and more of a known attraction for tourists. We got great seats in the upstairs balcony where we were able to see Joe Crown’s fingers floating across the keys as he presented a beautifully varied set of New Orleans piano classics. Tom McDermott followed him and while he was technically amazing I didn’t enjoy his set as much. Marcia Ball gave her usual excellent performance of boogie woogie piano with the highlight being her rendition of our favorite Delbert McClinton song, “Sending Me Angels”. The finale was all 6 hands on the piano at the same time as the three performers took turns sitting on the piano stool, playing the bass line, and playing the soprano part – very entertaining and fun.
Thursday was jazzfest day and we had agreed on a late start around 1pm. I had an interesting experience putting on my Crocs to head out to the muddy field – apparently they can shrink up to 2 sizes when left out wet in the sun – sure enough they had been rinsed off and left in the sun prior to packing. This meant a trip to the shoe store on the way to the festival and a lot of hilarity about “did you put them in the dryer?”. We rendezvoused with Alex, Tom, Gary and the crew at Liuza’s by the track and then headed in. Each year there is a guest country at the fest that shares their music, culture, and traditions. This year was Cuba.
The best days at the festival are those when you really have no agenda – nobody you really must see and have to fight in early to box out a space. We saw the Iguanas at Fais Do Dos, New Orleans Nightcrawlers (my highlight) at the Heritage stage, Herb Alpert in the Jazz tent, 10 mins or so of Widespread Panic on the Acura stage, a couple of minutes of Tower of Power on the Congo Square stage and then finished up with Darius Rucker on the Gentilly Stage (Diana’s highlight as evidenced by her happy music face).
The girls managed to work in oysters at the paddock and trips into the CD/Vinyl tent for better champagne than was on sale at the normal booths.
The food tents are equally as impressive as the music. We like to go back to the “trio” of offerings that we had at our first jazzfest. It’s hard to choose the most delicious between the crawfish sack, beignet, or oyster pattie.
We finished the evening off at a new place called the Beer Garden on Freret street – delicious food all around.
On Friday we had our typical leaving day brunch with Denny and Anne. This time at a new restaurant for all of us called “Cavan”. This was inside an old house with antique fixtures and décor. Again the food and drinks were delicious. So many fantastic and unique restaurants in this town and so little time. Back to McKinney and the ongoing home repairs from the hail storm. We had hoped they would be mostly complete while we visited New Orleans but a storm on Wednesday slowed things down by a couple of days. I woke on Saturday to nail guns on the roof above my head and then a generator right outside the bedroom window.